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Growing strawberries and using vertical space

Yet again I got another fantastic idea from tumblr gardening scrolling and blogging. Growing in vertical space, and growing in guttering. There are some fantastic scenarios of people using a...

Yet again I got another fantastic idea from tumblr gardening scrolling and blogging. Growing in vertical space, and growing in guttering. There are some fantastic scenarios of people using a fence and rigging up guttering, filling it with soil and planting herbs and lettuces. I wanted to grow strawberries, but do not have the bed or garden space for them. The thought of hanging baskets was of course in my mind, however somewhere that would get sufficient sun, I did not have the space for. So this was my solution.

This is 2 metres of structured drainage. We drilled holes along the bottom, put the caps in the ends, screwed it to the fence and filled it with compost. The whole project took about 15 minutes and $50 for the drainage channel.

I brought 10 bare root strawberries from diggers, and when they arrived they were literally roots, a base and not much else. I think of the 10 I had one lonely leaf. These pictures were taken about 2 weeks after planting. They are loving the sunny spot and watering they are getting. It is a little over planted, I wanted to put 5 plants in per 2 metres, but we are on a budget so one set for now.

I am very happy with how it has ended up looking, and I love the idea that the strawberries themselves will hang over the edge and not have problems like pests from resting in soil.

I really like the idea of using all the space you have. And growing vertically like this will give me the opportunity to have great strawberries without taking up precious bed or garden space. It also means no dog proofing needed as they cannot lay, rest, dig or eat their way through these.

 

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How to wheatgrass 2 – The daily grind

Previously I have shown the first stages of growing wheatgrass.  I am now at the stage now of continuous harvest and juicing. This is what my wheatgrass greenhouse looks like...

Previously I have shown the first stages of growing wheatgrass.  I am now at the stage now of continuous harvest and juicing.

This is what my wheatgrass greenhouse looks like currently. All trays are 3 days apart in growth. You can see the one I am currently harvesting and others in various stages of growth. I harvest directly from the greenhouse into a bowl for convenience.

Here is the harvested grass, and juicer all set up and ready to grind.

Insert wheatgrass into juicer.

Grind. Add more wheatgrass. Grind. Repeat until all wheat grass is used and you are left with nothing but rolls of wheatgrass fibers.

All done.

This particular juicer collects the juice in this cool container thingo.

Separate into shot glasses, and drink immediately.

I personally don’t enjoy the taste at all, so I follow my shot immediately with a water chaser. Mark doesn’t care and just sips his till it’s all gone. I am still really enjoying the process, daily activity and success in growing this. Can’t wait to see how fast it grows in summer.

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How to Wheatgrass

Previously I told you that Mark got a worm farm for his birthday. For mine (which is a few weeks away), I got a wheat grass kit. Growing your own...

Previously I told you that Mark got a worm farm for his birthday. For mine (which is a few weeks away), I got a wheat grass kit. Growing your own is the best way to have fresh wheat grass daily, and once you get the basics, the cheapest way to have it daily. Wheat grass has many beneficial properties. Most of it is unsubstantiated in scientific testing, however added nutrients in a diet cannot cause harm. It also has B12 which as a vegetarian is a very good thing to keep in check. Either way the kit was my birthday present and for the last 15 days has been something I have had to tend to daily.

So below is a guide with pictures on how to grow wheat grass.

I got a full kit including a masticating juicer (not pictured) as our other fruit and vegetable juicer cannot juice wheat grass. The kit contains 4kgs of wheat grass seed, 20 pieces of unbleached paper, 6 trays, 2 drip trays, a hemp bag sprouter (also not pictured) and organic seaweed fertiliser.

Step 1 soak 1 cup of wheat grass seed in a jar overnight or for 6-12 hours depending on the time of year. Shorter in summer (6 hours) and longer in winter (no longer than 12 hours).

When the time is up, you need to boil the sprouting bag for 5 minutes to sterilize it. So I do this just before the time is up and when it has been in the boiling pot, I then move it to a cold bath. You need to then empty the water from the jar (be careful not to spill any seeds) and rinse the seeds once. Take the rinsed seeds, pour them into the bag and let the bag soak under cold water for a minute.

After the soaking, hang the bag somewhere it can drip (my laundry sink is perfect for this as it is the perfect height to hang from the ap, not touch the sides or bottom and drip somewhere I don’t mind getting wet).

The next day is about keeping the seed moist. Twice a day you need to soak the bag under water to wet all the seeds and rehang it. By this point for me it is starting to sprout.

This is what it looks like sprouted and ready to be ‘planted’ on its tray.

Line a tray with a sheet of paper. This is optional, it helps stop soil dripping and roots pushing through. When I run out I will probably use nothing. And as you will see later it doesn’t stop the root growth pushing through.

The next part is to line the tray with 3cm worth of wet soil. The soil should be damp but not dripping. I put soil into a container and mix it with water before putting it into the tray. I then spread the soil out evenly and gently press it into an even layer.

Spread the sprouted seed onto the soil in an even layer. You want it to be a single layer of seed and not too many overlaps.

Water at this stage well. You need to then water it at least once a day. When it reaches 3 and 10 cm you fertilize, and at 12cm you harvest. A single tray will last 2 people 3 days. Thus I carry out the above steps every three days. The day after putting the sprouts on to a tray I simply put another cup into my jar and soak it.

You need to keep the seed wet and not let it dry out. During summer it has a shorter growth time, in winter (like we are coming into now) it can have up to a 20 day growth period. So to help it in winter a thing you can do is put it into a greenhouse. Lucky I had a mini-greenhouse to spare.

I put the first one next to my tomato greenhouse in the sun to give it the best chance to be warm and grow better. Turned out to be a big mistake.

My first tray had some growth but it was really patchy. I thought it was due to the sunlight not reaching the whole tray due to shade from the greenhouse next to the wheat grass one. So I moved the tray around. Did not help. My second tray went into a shadier spot and had much better growth. My third tray (I will call this my first success), was the best. It was on the second layer, full shade, and got all over sprouting.

This is tray 1 after 16 days growth. You can see big patches of dry mouldy seed between some growth patches. But the growth is also slow and stalling.

This is tray 2 after 13 days. You can see it is more consistent growth across the whole tray. However it still is a bit patchy, different growth levels and also the growth seems to be stalling a bit.

This is the third tray after 10 days. As you can see it is full, not patchy at all, and the growth is higher and fuller than the first two days after 3 and 6 days less growth time.

This is what the root growth looks like on tray 2. Patchy like the top and all different lengths.

This is the root growth on tray 3. The growth is lush, full even and just healthy. At the proof of shade on the third tray working so well, I moved my greenhouse under my deck. It is now out of sun, but still allows some heat inside it’s cover. Tray number 4 is also growing amazingly well in its new position.

Here is the greenhouse in its new position out of the sun. The middle row is tray 3 and 4. Tray 5 was just put in today. I am very happy with how it is all going so far, and it did not take long to figure out the best position to start growing. The daily routine is very easy, and being that its a 3 day cycle it is easy to keep it up. I am looking forward to the first harvest. I will probably harvest tray 1 and 2 shortly as the growth is halting and I will need the room in the greenhouse soon.

It has been a very fun experiment and I am very happy with my presents and the results.

The wheatgrass kit was ordered from here. I also got a kit for my friend who is also an organic gardening hobbyist for her birthday. Seriously the kit has everything you need. I got an ultimate kit + juicer for me and an ultimate kit for my friend (as she has that specific style of juicer already).

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Worm Farm

This post is subtitled:  “Happy birthday Mark”, “Recycling at its simplest” and “Moar recycling”. So those are all of the different titles I wanted to use for this post for...

This post is subtitled:  “Happy birthday Mark”, “Recycling at its simplest” and “Moar recycling”.

So those are all of the different titles I wanted to use for this post for a number of reasons. For my birthday present I decided I wanted a wheat grass kit (which will be part of a future blog post!). I also realised that it would produce quite a bit of garden waste. If I am using a single tray of wheat grass every 3 days, that is a fair amount of seed and stumps and soil over a few weeks. Nourishing, wonderful, nutrient waste. Mark also juices carrots for this body toning. So every 2-3 days we get a bag of carrot and pear pulp. Also nourishing, wonderful and nutrient waste.

I have yet to setup a proper compost management system at this house. We kind of have a dump area next to the shed where big patches of garden waste goes. But in my mind I knew those kinds of scraps would be wasted there. Also we have started just throwing out our vegetable scraps. And as vegetarians we have a lot of vegetable scraps. So even though we are on a tight budget we decided to invest in a worm farm.

worm farm ready to be assembled

The farm itself was $72.00. However you have to buy a few things like worms ($27.50 for 500ish) and a worm blanket ($9.96). Which all adds up. Still this means we will have fantastic fertilizer and worm casings for the gardens. Something we won’t have to buy when this farm really establishes itself. Due to the cost, and because I had decided the wheat grass would be my birthday present Mark declared that the worm farm would be his birthday present. So Happy Birthday Mark! May your worms be super productive!

cute image of worms eating from instruction manual

This is the instruction manual cover. Just how cute are these vege eatin worms? The setup is really simple.

even the packaging is recycled inside the worm farm!

I decided to forgo using the legs that came with the system as I have read a few reviews online and when it starts to really develop and get heavy the legs give out. So I have it on the end of my work bench, close to a fence, under shade cloth in an area that gets almost zero direct sunlight to protect it from the heat of summer. It is also on a slight slope allowing for the tap to really drain the collector at the bottom. Once you have the tap assembled, you put on one of the working trays and line the base with the cardboard packaging that the system came in. You also get given a block of ‘bedding’ for the worms that you put in a bucket of water and break up into fibers (whose paper wrapping is also worm friendly so that goes in too!). Once it is all wet and broken up you put it in an even layer over the cardboard.

worm farm filled with 'bedding', worms, and carrot pulp

You then put in your worms. They were all wriggly. So awesome. I then spread them out as gently as I could and they immediately burrowed down. I then covered this with a layer of carrot pulp we had saved, and placed the worm blanket over the top.

worms all snuggly in their worm blanket in their worm farm

Shh. Under this blanket are happy worms happily eating my vege scraps and sleeping, we don’t want to disturb their progress!

protecting worm 'tea' using mesh cloth

I also read in the reviews of worm farms that it is not uncommon for the taps of the collector units to get clogged, and one way around this is to have the tap ‘permanently open’. So in another recycling moment, I used an old protein powder bucket that I quickly nabbed from our recycling bin pile because I knew I would be able to reuse it somewhere. We have a big issue with mosquitoes around here, and the idea of keeping the tap open and having a water source for mosquitoes to lay in was not ideal. So what I did was cut a circle out of the lid of the bucket, placed some of my mesh material over the top and put the lid back on. So now the worm tea will drip down into the bucket but the mosquitoes cannot get in.

worm farm in action

Here is the farm all setup. I just have to watch for ants as I have had a few ant’s try to nest in some seedling trays that I used to store at the end of this bench. If it becomes a problem I will put a layer of Vaseline along the bottom of the unit. This can get messy so I won’t do it unless it becomes super necessary.

So while we are on the subject of recycling here are a few other projects I have going on.

growing tomatoes upside down in a softdrink bottle

Yep I found yet another use for soft drink bottles. Cut off the bottom, make a few holes, suspend with wire and put a tomato seedling into it, fill with soil and hang. This is my upside down tomatoes in winter on the clothes line experiment.

recycling celery

Did you also know you can recycle or regrow celery? All you need to do is keep the stub of the base, place it in a shallow dish of water and wait a week or two. The middle regrows. When it reaches 15 or so cm you bury it back into your garden. Another neat thing I learned from keeping my tumblr gardening blog growandeat.tumblr.com.

The header image and instruction manual picture of happy worms are both copyright Tumbleweed.